So we left Rab Island this morning only to be overtaken 100 metres from the ferry by an impatient lorry driver racing us to the ferry but much to Tony’s delight we were put on the ferry in pole position ready to be first off!
Then, believe it or not, it only happened again, this time by a German campervan at our next ferry crossing to Pag Island. Again, we were let off the ferry before the German camper. I don’t think the locals take to the German tourists either! Tony enjoyed driving at his own pace for the next 25km with an irate German behind us.
Our first thought of Pag Island as we left the ferry was that it reminded us so much of Oman, we even had to stop to let the sheep cross the road. So, John and Diane, I know you are reading this blog, there is no need to go back to Oman if you are homesick just come to Pag Island for a quick fix!
We stopped off at Pag Town for a look around and to buy some of the Pag cheese, known locally as ‘Paksi Sir’, apparently it is very distinctive in taste, salty and sharp! The milk for Pag cheese is gathered in May when flavour is at its peak, it is left unpasteurised and when the cheese finally ferments, it is rubbed with sea salt, coated with olive oil and left to age for anywhere from six months to a year resulting in a tangy, firm cheese that matures into an aromatic, dry crumbly cheese. I will let you know whether it is good or not when we have tried it. Liz, I have bought some to bring to Paris too!
We probably didn’t experience Pag Town at it’s best as it had clouded over and we had a shower of rain. It was nice but not like the previous towns we have visited, it has narrow lanes and quite plain houses, a very nice foot bridge and a lovely white marble square, which the guide books say is a socialising hot spot, but not today!
We carried on our drive through Pag Island heading for Zadar and all the way we experienced wonderful landscapes, such diversity in roads and scenery.
We arrived in Zadar and decided to look into the old town before we found the campsite. Zadar is a much larger commercial port however there is a very lovely old town which is well worth a visit, packed with Roman ruins and medieval churches, cosmopolitan cafes, lovely shops, Zara, Max Mara etc. but the best sights are the Sea Organ and the Sun Salutation. The Sea Organ is unique, set within the perforated stone stairs that descent into the sea is a system of pipes and whistles that creates a wonderful sound when the movement of the sea pushes air through it. It has to be heard to be believed. I did record the sounds, however Tony ruined it by saying out loud “Tony playing his organ”. I do have the recording which I may have to put on You Tube!
The Sun salutation is a 22m circle cut into the pavement filled with 300 multi-layered glass plates that collect the sun’s energy, in other words, solar panels and Tony was surprised to find solar panels larger than his!
We are now camped at Camping Borik just north of Zadar and have been very surprised that through this whole trip, we have only seen one English campervan on site. Thank goodness Tony has LBC to listen to!